The Wine Region – Grand Tokaj

Tokaj wine region

Tokaj-Hegyalja is Hungary’s number one wine region and one of the most beautiful, situated in the Tokaj-Abaújszántó-Sátoraljaújhely triangle on the southern slopes of the Zemplén Hills. The excellent location of the vineyards, the volcanic soil structure, the autumn sunshine and the favourable effects of the vapour rising from the nearby Bodrog river are the secrets of the quality and uniqueness of Tokaj wine. The tradition of making Tokaj aszú, the ‘king of wines, the wine of kings’, is passed down from father to son in the region.

Local farmers cultivated vineyards here well before the conquest of the Carpathian Basin by Hungarian tribes. Today there are 5500 hectares under vine. Tokaj was the world’s first closed wine region. On the 1st of October in 1737, VI. King Károly announced the demarcation of the Tokaj wine region and in the same document listed the 28 settlements with the authorization to grow grapes for the production of Tokaj wines. In 2002, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee inscribed the historic Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region on the World Heritage List as a cultural landscape. The intact, original wine-growing traditions of the past thousand years and the millennia-old unity of the area justified the inscription of the wine region on the World Heritage List.

The wine-growing area is characterised by a continental climate, volcanic bedrock (andesite, rhyolite and the corresponding tuffs) and the resulting liquefied soil. While the mineral-rich volcanic rocks favour full-bodied wines, the looser soils yield wines with a softer character.

A Grand Tokaj pincészet új szellemiséget képviselő borai a 2012-ben az Év Bortermelője címet elnyert, 100 pontos esszenciáról ismert borász, Áts Károly felügyelete alatt készülnek, aki 2013 óta a társaság főborásza.

Áts Károly szerint a boron mindig átüt a borász személyisége. Az ő boraiból tehát a boldogság és az életigenlés sugárzik. Mindig optimistán gondolkodik, mert úgy véli, ha nem így tenne, nem „menne át” a borba az öröm, hiszen jó bort csak boldog borász készíthet. Elégedett embernek tartja magát, hiszen hobbija egyben a munkája is. Tősgyökeres Tokaj-hegyaljaiként édesapja révén mindig jelen volt életében a szőlő és a bor. Célja, hogy boraival visszaadja a természet ajándékait, és örömet szerezzen a fogyasztóinak.

„Egy olyan borvidékre születtem, ami – úgy gondolom – egy csoda. Nekem a hazám. Egy olyan családba születtem, ahol édesapám és édesanyám a természet tiszteletére, a szeretetre nevelt. Édesapám mindig azt mondta, fiam, te csak mindig legyél saját magad, ne más. Nem is akarok. Én mindig az az Áts Karcsi akarok maradni, akivé ő nevelt.”

A majd’ negyedszázados borászmúlttal rendelkező szakember számára soha nem volt kérdés, hogy melyik borvidéken folytatja pályafutását. Bort készíteni, persze, máshol is lehet, de igazán mindig arra vágyott, hogy megmutassa, mire képes Tokaj. Ezt sikeresen teljesíti, hiszen boraiban valóban érezni a Tokaji borvidék sokarcúságát, a történelmi dűlők különleges karakterét.

Életút:
Szakmai pályafutását a Budafoki Borászati Technikumban kezdte, majd 1988-ban a Kertészeti Egyetemen végzett borászként. A diploma megszerzése után a Tokaji Borkombináthoz került, ahol kezdetben gyakornokként, később pincevezetőként dolgozott. 1988-tól hat éven át a Tokaj Kereskedőház Zrt. jogelődjénél, a Tokaj-hegyaljai Állami Gazdasági Borkombinátnál tevékenykedett, majd 1994-ben került a Royal Tokaji Borászati Zrt.-hez, ahol később főborásszá vált. 2013 áprilisában csatlakozott a Grand Tokaj pincészethez, itt is a főborászi pozíciót tölti be.

Elismerések:
2002-ben alkotta meg az azóta legendássá vált, róla elnevezett, késői szüretelésű tokaji édes bort, az Áts Cuvée-t. 2006-ban a Wine and Spirit amerikai magazin 100 pontosra értékelte az általa készített 1999-es esszenciát. Ebben az évben Tokaj-Hegyalján megválasztották az év borászának. 2009-ben a Népszabadság Top 100 Borversenyében a 2003-as Betsek aszúbora abszolút győztes, 2007-es száraz furmintja kategóriagyőztes lett. 2012-ben elnyerte az Év Bortermelője címet, majd 2020-ban megkapta a Borászok Borásza elismerést. A Tokaj-hegyaljai borvidék fejlesztése érdekében végzett kiemelkedő szakmai tevékenysége elismeréséként 2014-ben a Magyar Érdemrend lovagkeresztje polgári tagozat kitüntetést kapta.

The Tokaj character

The characteristic feature of the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region is the aszú production – shrivelled, botrityzed berries with very high levels of sugar – that occurs from year to year thanks to the combination of the soil, the special microclimate, the surrounding rivers (Bodrog, Tisza) and the appropriate grape varieties (Furmint, Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály, Zéta, Kövérszőlő, Kabar). The mould fungus itself (Botrytis cinerea) responsible for the aszú berries is not specific to the wine region as it is found elsewhere. However, the noble cellar mould (Cladosporium cellare) found on the walls of cellars carved into the riolitic tuff is endemic to the region, and it is this mould that creates the optimal conditions for the wines during barrel ageing (temperature, humidity).

Early autumn rains and morning fog cause the grapes to swell and split, opening the door for botrytis to spread. The special microclimate means that the rains are followed by a long period of warm, sunny weather, which helps the berries to ripen, concentrating flavours and aromas and increasing sugar content.

Aszú production in Tokaj today still follows the ancient methodology. The first step in the process is to pick the berries from the bunches at harvest, one by one, and then place them in vats and store them until processing. During this time, thanks to the perforated vats, the essence drips from the aszú berries as they are gently squeezed by their own weight.

In the autumn of 2013, new regulations were introduced for the production of Tokaj wines in the wine region to standardise the quality of Tokaj wines. The minimum sugar content for aszú was set at 120 g/l. It is stipulated that wines produced in the region may be matured and bottled only in the place of production, i.e. in the commune belonging to the wine region.

Site potential

As part of the winery’s quality renewal programme, which began in 2013, a site potential and plantation condition survey was carried out, resulting in a new, unique development, the so-called geo-information system, which is clearly linked to Grand Tokaj.

The aim of the site potential survey was to map the potential of the vineyards in the wine region. The experts used the data on the potential of the vineyards and the production potential to determine the production objectives of a given area, i.e. what should be produced there. This is of particular importance as the winery is an integrator of the region and has links with more than 1.400 farmers, all of whom have a common interest in producing high quality raw materials and high-quality wine. To read more about Grand Tokaj’s role as an integrator, click on the link.

The process started with an assessment of the 5,500 hectares of vineyards in the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region, based on the above-mentioned criteria. The study used 21st century methods to determine the topography and soil conditions of the areas, while historical data and satellite images were used to characterise the meso- and macroclimatic potential. The personal visits made during the plantation surveys were complemented by aerial and remote sensing data.

The data collected on the condition of the vineyards was stored and displayed in a newly developed complex geographic information system.

The site potential survey was carried out between 2013 and 2015, resulting in a geographical information decision support system that allows pre-modelling and planning of grape purchases. The system was tested in 2015 and the positive results were already visible during the harvest: thanks to the right timing, quality grapes were harvested.

Grape varieties

Furmint

Furmint is a variety of Hungarian origin, one of the most characteristic and widely planted grapes of the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region. Furmint is a variety with vigorous growth, however it develops fewer vertical canes than other varieties, and it is therefore are fairly easy to control. The bunches are medium in size and loose in structure. It is not sensitive to weather and diseases, and can withstand sunshine, drought and even winter frosts. Furmint is a late-ripening variety, harvested between September and November according to technological requirements. Its sweet, often fruity taste and its ability to produce aszú berries and retain acidity have made it one of the most popular grapes in the wine region. Furmint produces fragrant, firm and full-bodied wines with relatively high acidity. It is considered a particularly valuable and versatile Hungarian variety.

Hárslevelű

Besides Furmint, the other prominent grape variety of the Tokaj wine region is Hárslevelű, an old, Hegyalja variety of presumably Hungarian origin. It takes its name from the linden tree, due to the similarity of its leaves. Like Furmint, it has a relatively vigorous growth, but at the same time its need for canopy management is negligible. Hárslevelű bunches are larger and the berries smaller, making them less susceptible to rotting. As a result, its capacity to produce aszú berries is minimal. Ideal conditions are important for Hárslevelű, as its tolerance to weather extremes and diseases is not the best. It is typically harvested late, from September to November, according to technological requirements. Its distinctive floral scent and fresh acidity produce a full-bodied wine with a delicious linden honey essence and flavour.

Yellow Muscat

In Hungary, Yellow Muscat (also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is grown in only a few regions, but it is very popular in Europe. It is one of the oldest varieties still cultivated. It is characterised by thin vines and medium sized, dense clusters, tiny, juicy grapes, thin and soft skin, making it highly susceptible to rot. It is also sensitive to disease and thrives in deeper, nutrient-rich soils with good water retention capacity. The wines have a delicate Muscat bouquet, soft aromas and good acidity even when the grapes are well ripened.

Kabar

The Kabar grape variety was created by crossing Bouvier and Hárslevelű. Its main vine has few canes and its leaves are dark green. Its yield is lower than Zéta, but it has a good potential to produce aszú berries. Its thicker skin makes it more resistant to rain.

Zéta

The grape variety was created by Ferenc Király in 1951 by blending Bouvier and Furmint. Previously known as Oremus, the name Zéta was only given to it much later. In terms of vigour, it’s about average, the bunches are medium sized, cone-shaped and very tight. It usually ripens in the second half of September, and the reason why it has been able to establish itself in Tokaj is because of its excellent ability to produce aszú berries. It is not one of the more resistant varieties and requires more care. Wines made from Zéta resemble Furmints: they are full-bodied, harmonious, with a fine acidity.

Kövérszőlő

Endemic to the Black Sea region this variety was phased out of production after the Phylloxera crisis and has been present in Tokaj in small quantities ever since. The berries are larger, thin-skinned and the flesh is soft and juicy. It boasts an excellent capacity to produce aszú berries, with the right weather conditions it may yield three times as much as Furmint does. When planting, the location and aspect of the site must be carefully considered, as Kövérszőlő is susceptible to rot. It thrives best on windy, drier slopes and has good frost and drought tolerance. The wine is pleasant, slightly fragrant, delicately acidic and harmonious.